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Rollin' on the Zambezi River

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We arrived at Royal Chundu after dark - The place was lit with  lanterns giving a warm glow to the night. Our beautiful smiling hosts made us feel right at home, between the iced Rooibos tea with neck and shoulder rubs by the staff, we were putty in their hands!  Once we took at look at our villas, we made our way to a huge table set just for us under the stars by the Zambezi river. (As with Tintswalo, our group occupied the entire lodge.) A delicious welcome dinner was served to us under the trees and overlooking the dark river. One thing I observed during this amazing adventure was wherever we ate, the portions were 'just right' - filling and satisfying. The meals were made of locally sourced produce, meat, eggs, very fresh and delicious.  Here are some evening photos...  The table was set with colorful Kitenge fabrics from the nearby village - warm and soft blankets were draped over the chairs for the very chilly evenings. Such a lovely setting. Our villa was bea

Don't Mess with Carla

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The last morning at Tintswalo, we climbed into the vehicles one more time, and our guides drove us to the nearby dirt airstrip to board two Federal Air Cessnas bound for Kruger International Airport. Once again we squeezed into these guys - I swear the aisle was about 9 inches wide - within minutes we were airborne and for the most part, it was a smooth trip.  We landed, taxied to the farthest end of the airport, and trudged inside the terminal. What a neat building! We had been here once before on the way to Phinda for a change of planes, but didn't see anything other than the baggage carousel and restrooms. This time, a very nice lady led us through a door and surprisingly we were in the terminal with little shops! So we did what any red-blooded American would do - we went for the kill! We didn't have much of a layover, and soon it was time to board our Airlink Flight to Victoria Falls Airport (in Zimbabwe). As we walk the tarmac, we spot the plane with stairs (again with the

'Git along, little doggies'

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Our guide Ryan took us out one evening in search of a Water Buffalo herd with hopes we'd  spot some lions or leopards following them. We had quite a bit of area to cover to get to these guys. On the way, we saw two ostriches, some giraffes with a baby, jackals, impalas, leopards and lions. We went off-road through ditches and dips, ducking sideways to avoid branches to get close to the herd and came upon a leopard stalking them. We followed the leopard and parked nearby to keep an eye out. The herd was restless, and clouds of dust rose as they moved on bellowing...It made me think of the theme song from Rawhide.....'Rollin' rollin', rollin', keep them doggies rollin' - rawhide!' We were in the center of their movement watching them doggies go by.    Ryan explained the leopard was no match for a water buffalo, but might try for a calf. We drove around a bit more until we heard a commotion nearby. The leopard had gotten an Impala, and in the short time it took

Hold on to your Hats!

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After a fairly short jaunt in our 'sardine cans in the sky', we landed at Hoedspruit Airport. The terminal building consisted of 2 restrooms surrounded by vibrant succulents. Magically, two vehicles appeared (one with a trailer for our 15 duffle bags. 😬) We all piled in, ready for this new adventure as the drivers navigated the traffic in the town. The commercial trucks are huge there, and passing them while driving on the wrong side of the road is an adrenaline boost! Our next stop - Tintswalo. This lodge was highly anticipated due to the wonderful reviews from our dear friends who had previously visited and absolutely loved it. In fact, our hosts and family previously stayed and shared they loved it so much tears were shed when they had to leave.  We drove in on another unassuming dirt road...and when we came upon the lodge, I noticed an elevated platform (for ease of getting into the landcruisers - a little less stress on my knee and John's balance - Yay!). Greeting us

Phinda Postscript

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 One of the last evenings at Phinda, our group was treated to a 'Boma' dinner (outside under the stars). It was gorgeous with all the lamps lit around us, and again, the food was amazing. Our food was locally sourced, and very fresh. Portions weren't ginormous like they are in the states. Our butlers are Happy and Ngcebo. (Butlers are the folks who take care of dining at the lodge.) Both went out of their way to deliver the best experience. One evening, I complemented Happy on such a delicious dinner and wonderful service, and she clasped her hands to her heart and thanked me sincerely. Her response embodied the spirit of the lodge and the people of South Africa.   Zulu extravaganza  As we were waiting for dessert, we heard a commotion near the dining room, drumming and clapping louder and louder until our butlers, and many of the lodge staff appeared while serenading us with their beautiful Zulu songs and dancing under the stars. They brought out a birthday cak

Morning has Broken

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early coffee time Each day starts with a cheerful 6:00 am Wake-up call. We throw our clothes on, slather our faces with sunscreen and bundle up for the morning ride to meet at 6:15. Coffee, cookies, and crossiants are served to take the sting out of such an early time. Our group gathers while the guides and trackers ready the land cruisers. Speaking of which, Phinda's crew keeps these bad boys polished and shiny. You can feel the pride in the work that is done on every level. Staff has been so welcoming with a commitment to seeing their guests happy.  Getting in these land cruisers seemed easy for the rest of our group, but John and I struggled with it. His movements are stiff and uncoordinated, and I have a messed up leg. They gave us a little step stool to make the first step onto the vehicle easier. There was always a kind person in our group and/or staff that graciously assisted us. One night, l missed a step that kind of left me hanging onto the side with my good leg f